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  1. History of The Pearl

    The pearl is a very important part of jewellery history, it was used before any gemstone due to it being fairly easily come by, unlike gemstones which were discovered when mined. There is no definite record of when pearls were first discovered, they were most probably found by ancient civilizations diving in search of food and the soft iridescence caught their eye.

     

    The Pandyan Dynasty from South India (pre Christian era) was thought to be the first people to use the pearl, they controlled the fishing areas of many bays off South India and produced the finest pearls. This discovery was made because shell middens which are underground mounds of shells that are formed when pre-historic stone age men discard the shells of molluscs and oysters and were found along the bays of Sri-Lanka. The enormous mounds form solid base which then encouraged human settlements. I came across these shell middens when I visited south Africa below is an example.

     

     

     

    In ancient Rome pearls were a symbol of high status and were worn by the very wealthy. Chinese records indicate that pearls were cherished possessions within royalty, this is also true in ancient Rome as their has been many pearls found buried with royalty. An old fable involving the early queen of Egypt Cleopatra and Roman leader Mark Anthony reveals the importance of the pearl in royalty.

     

     

     

    In the year 41 B.C Anthony invited Cleopatra for a banquet at Tarsus, Cleopatra challenged Anthony that she could give the most expensive meal ever provided with only a vessel of sour wine (vinegar). Anthony was perplexed when Cleopatra removed one of her pearl earrings and dropped it into the vinegar. The expensive pearl dissolved in the acidic solution, Cleopatra drank the goblet worth more than any meal in history and won the bet.

     

     

    shell-midden
    pearl farm tahaa  

     

    Cultured pearls are produced on oyster farms. The oysters are hung on ropes into the water, sometimes in baskets to stop predators like tiger fish and sea-turtles. They are anchored using concrete blocks. The next step is called seeding, this process involved prizing open the oyster and placing an irritant which is usually a small worm which is contrary to popular belief that a grain of sand is used. The oyster produces a nacre which creates the pearl, after the oyster produces a pearl is is usually sacrificed and eaten in the community because it will never produce a pearl as shiny as its first. To breed new oysters the farmers collect spat or commonly known as lava from around the area the oysters are kept.

     

     

    image courtesy of http://www.tahiti-pearl-online.com/Pearls-of-Tahiti/pearl-farm.html

    Pearl farm in Tahaa    

    Symbolism of the Pearl

     

    In Hindu culture, pearls were associated with the Moon and were symbols of love and purity One of the most common beliefs about the power of the pearl is its association with life. People believed pearls changed depending on the health of its wearer: the gem clouded if the wearer fell sick, and lost its lustre completely if the wearer died. Early Chinese scholars believed pearls had vital powers and have the power to prevent forest fires. Tales were told of pearls so luminous they could cook rice and could be seen from thousands of yards or even several miles away.

     

     

    Tibetan monks were said to have a "seduction pearl" that would cause any woman caught in its rays to become ravenous for love. In Wales, the Celts believed pearls have incredible life-giving powers. They decorated sacred vessels known as the Mother-Pots, they believed it would contaminate the water contained by the vessel with its special powers. Pearls are used as a metaphor for love and beauty. Being an expression of love, the pearl became a euphemism for the clitoris in Victorian times, recalling its place at Aphrodite's pearly gate.

     

    Pearl Facts and what to look for

    Imitation Pearls:

    Good imitations are made from beads of glass, ceramic or shell and coated with a varnish of lacquer and ground fish scales to mimic the pearl surface. Well made imitations can be quite hard to spot. One way is the 'tooth test'. Gently rub the pearl under the cutting edge of your top front teeth. Don't bite it. Real pearl should feel slightly gritty due to it's crystalline structure. An imitation pearl will feel smooth. This is not an infallible test.

     

     

     

    View Our Pearl Collection at Nude Jewellery

    black pearl peacock necklace purple peacock pearl earrings pearl and gold chain necklace pearls 003
  2. 'Graduates in the Spotlight at Nude Jewellery'


    Nude Jewellery are proud to announce the winner of their Graduate in the Spotlight competition,
    2014. Dovile Bertulyte impressed both Nude Jewellery and their facebook and twitter followers to
    come out on top and win the competition.

     Dovile Hand Earrings Dovile Double hand necklace  Dovile Hand Pendant 2

    Dovile Bertulyte, a Lithuanian born jewellery designer based in London graduated from Middlesex
    University Ba (Hons), Jewellery and Accessories course in 2013. Her newly launched collection
    ‘Phobia of darkness’ demonstrates commitment to creating exceptional, unique designs and
    luxurious wearable jewellery to be treasured for ever.


    “There is always a narrative in the jewellery I create - every piece, every collection has a story to
    tell. At the current stage of my creative work I am analysing human phobias and bringing their
    emotion to my pieces of jewellery, the collection portrays the imaginary horror and fear that can be
    attractive too. I would like these stories to be heard by a bigger audience. After all, art needs to be
    shared and appreciated. I believe that with Nude Jewellery's help my dream could become reality.
    Thank you for giving me the chance to introduce myself and participate in this contest.”


    Commenting on winning the competition Dovile said, “I feel really happy and excited about winning!
    Thank you so much for this opportunity.”


    Nikki Galloway, owner of Nude Jewellery, said of the competition, “Dovile is such a deserved
    winner, her work is unusual and unique and fit's in perfectly with the Nude ethos, it's different
    enough to stand out and beautifully quirky, something we love here at Nude Jewellery”


    Speaking about the future of the competition Nikki added, “It's been a really successful year with
    1,444 votes in total and the response we've had just proves that there is a need for a competition
    like this for graduates. We are committed to promote new designers and alongside our Graduates
    in the Spotlight have launched our Featured Designer, a monthly event promoting both new and
    established jewellery designers”


    Dovile Bertulyte 'Phobia of darkness' will be Nude Jewellery's Featured Designer during June and
    will be available in-store until the end of August.

    Contemporary Jewellery London, Designer Jewellery

     

  3. Dovile Double hand necklace Dovile Hand Pendant Dovile Hand Earrings Dovile Hand Pendant 2 Dovile Bracelet

    What inspired you to become a jewellery designer?

     

    I always had an artistic personality. In Lithuania I graduated from the art school and always knew that I will be involved in some kind of art form in the future. When time had come to choose universities I decided to study Textile Design in my home country, but felt really disappointed with the course.

    So I started to look for an opportunity to study in England and found Middlesex University offering a Jewellery and Accessories programme with a very contemporary approach and ability to experiment with shapes, materials and textures, which was exactly what I wanted. What I like about jewellery the most is that it is an art form closely related to a wearer. I really get inspired by knowing that what I create will be worn by someone everyday, loved and treasured.

    What is your favourite piece of jewellery? (either made or purchased)

     

    I think one of my favorite pieces of jewellery is a necklace I made from my Graduate Collection (2013). It was inspired by octopus tentacles and made of silicone using my own developed technique during the studies. The material feels very nice on the skin when worn and it also represents the softness and texture of the tentacles just perfectly. The necklace looks very original and stylish, so every time I wear it, I get a lot of compliments.

     

    Which celebrity would you love to wear your jewellery and why?

    Bjork and Daphne Guinness, because they both are crazy and I love crazy women.

     

    Out-with jewellery is there any other career that you would love to try?

     

    If I wasn’t a jeweller, I would probably be an illustrator or painter. I love drawing and painting, and would love to spend more time doing these two activities everyday.

     

    What can we expect to see from you in the future?

     

    Soon I will launch my new silicone collection inspired by squid tentacles and in near future I hope to make more show pieces collaborating with fashion designers.